In the majority of reducing rooms today, the slicing procedure makes use of hand shears, a mechanized knife blade in one of the quite a few feasible types, or a die press which stamps out the garment shape. Some of the strategies presently in use are described below.
Hand Shears
Hand shears are usually used when slicing solely single or double plies. The decrease blade of the shears passes underneath the plies, and some distortion of the material may manifest which can be prevented with practice. Both left passed and proper passed shears are accessible for left or right-handed people. The important downside of the technique lies in the time it consumes and the consequent excessive labour value per garment, however it is fabulous for made to measure garments.
Straight Knife
A straight knife is used the place the portions for slicing do no longer justify the buy of a computer-controlled cutter. The factors of a straight knife consist of a base plate, generally on rollers for ease of movement, an upright or a fashionable carrying a straight, vertical blade with various area traits and an electric powered motor above it, a take care of for the cutter to direct the blade, and a sharpening device. The base plate on its rollers slides below the glazed paper which is unfold beneath the backside ply of cloth in a lay. Normally, handy blades heights differ from 10 cm to 33 cm and strokes fluctuate from 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm. The higher the blade movement, the quicker the blade cuts the cloth and the greater unexpectedly and effortlessly the operator can push the machine.
The straight knife is a frequent skill of reducing lays in traditional slicing rooms due to the fact it is versatile, portable, more cost effective than a band knife, extra correct on curves than a spherical knife and fairly dependable and convenient to maintain. Even if a band knife is used for the principal slicing operation, a straight knife would be used to separate the lay into sections for less difficult handling.
Round Knife
The factors of a spherical knife are a base plate, above which is established an electric powered motor, a take care of for the cutter to direct the blade, and a round blade rotating so that the main area cuts downwards into the fabric. Blade diameters differ from 6 cm to 20 cm. Round knives are no longer appropriate for reducing curved strains in excessive lays due to the fact the blade does now not strike all the plies concurrently at the identical factor as a vertical factor does. Therefore, a round-knife is used solely for straight traces or decrease no of lays of incredibly few plies.
Band Knife
A band knife consists of a sequence of three or extra pulleys, powered with the aid of an electric powered motor, with a continually rotating metal blade established on them. One aspect of the blade is sharpened. The band knife passes via a slot in the slicing desk in a constant function and the area of the lay to be reduce is moved previous it.
Band knives are used when a greater general of slicing accuracy is required than can be acquired with a straight knife. Pieces to be reduce are first reduce on a block, and then reduce precisely on a band knife.
Notchers
Many clothes require that notches be reduce into the edges of them to allow alignment at some stage in stitching with different garment parts. Specialized notching tools affords larger accuracy due to the fact a information strains up the notcher with the reduce part to provide constant depth of notch at a constant proper attitude to the edge.
Drills and thread markers
Where reference marks are wished away from the facet of a garment part, such as for the role of the pockets, darts and comparable features, a gap is regularly drilled via all the plies of cloth in the lay. The drill mounting consists of a motor, a base plate with a gap to enable the drill to skip through, and a spirit degree to make certain that the base is horizontal and as a result the drill vertical. On many fabrics, the drill is used bloodless and the hole stays seen till the stitching operator comes to use it. On looser weave fabrics, the place the gap may additionally shut up, a warm drill is used which will barely scorch or fuse the edges of the hole. A hypodermic drill can also be used which leaves a small savings of paint on every ply of fabric. If it is essential that no mark stays on the fabric, a lengthy thread may additionally be handed via the lay which is then reduce with scissors between every ply, leaving a few centimeters seen on every garment panel. All drill holes have to finally be hid via the building of the garment.
Computer controlled cutting knives
This approach affords the most correct viable cutting, at excessive speed, and to preserve the large structures utterly occupied they are regularly used in a central reducing facility that resources a quantity of separate stitching factories. A regular pc reducing machine has a desk with a reducing floor consisting of nylon bristles which assist the material lays however are bendy ample to allow penetration and motion of the knife blade which is supported solely at the top. The bristles additionally permit the passage of air thru the desk to create a vacuum, decreasing the top of the lay and protecting it in place. The carriage helping the reducing head has two synchronised servomotors, which power it on tracks on the edges of the table. The reducing head carries a knife, automated sharpener and a similarly servo motor which rotates the knife to role it at a tangent to the line of reduce on curves. A sheet of hermetic polyethylene covers the pinnacle of the lay, which assists the advent of a vacuum and lets in vast compression of the lay. Control cupboard homes the pc and the electrical factors required to force the cutter, its carriage and the vacuum motor.
The spreader spreads the lay on a traditional reducing desk outfitted with air flotation. Paper is unfold beneath the backside ply so that the lay can be moved onto the reducing desk barring distortion and so that the backside plies are supported for the duration of the reducing operation. This paper is perforated to allow the vacuum on the reducing desk to function to compress the lay. The slicing desk does now not want to be as lengthy as the lay and its bristle floor can consist of a conveyor which assists in the switch of the lay, in sections, from the spreading desk and of the reduce work onto the bundling tables.
Die Cutting
Die reducing entails urgent of a inflexible blade thru the laid fabric. The die is a knife in the form of the sample periphery, inclusive of notches. Free standing dies typically fall into two categories. They can be of strip steel, manufactured by using bending the strip to the form required and welding the joint. These can't be sharpened and have to be changed when worn. Alternatively, they can be a heavier gauge, cast dies which can be re-sharpened however which are 5 instances the rate of strip steel. They grant a excessive preferred of accuracy of reducing but, due to the fact of the price of the dies, they are solely fabulous to conditions the place massive portions of the identical sample will be cut. Die slicing additionally gives a great deal quicker reducing than knife reducing for the identical depth of cut. It is proportionally greater financial for small components which have a larger periphery in relation to their area.
Also Read.. Cutting Process in the Garment Industry