A guide for evaluating your initial factory sample: providing written feedback and verifying details.
Design: The comprehensive creative design of your garment or accessory, including how the sample visually represents your initial concept.
To assess the fit and functionality of the garment/accessory as intended, as well as evaluate how the construction contributes to its overall design and function, it is recommended to follow four straightforward steps in order to review your sample and provide feedback to your factory.
In order to conduct a thorough review of your sample, you will require the following:
Prototype Sample
Tech Pack
Hard Edge Ruler
Tape Measure
Pen / Pencil
Highlighter
Step 1:
Prior to fitting your garment, it is essential to measure it against your specifications. This step is crucial because the act of fitting the garment can potentially stretch the fabric. Therefore, it is advisable to evaluate the garment in its original state as delivered by the factory.
To begin, lay the garment flat on a spacious table and carefully smooth out any wrinkles without exerting any force that may stretch the fabric. Utilize a hard edge ruler and tape measure to compare the measurements of your Points of Measure (POMs) with the actual sample measurements, following the provided measurement guide. Repeat these steps for the back of the garment.
Once you have completed the measurement process for your prototype, identify and highlight any specifications that deviate from the acceptable tolerance range. Additionally, make a note of the fit issues you anticipate based on these out-of-tolerance measurements.
As a general guideline, it is advisable to request that the factory verify the specifications before sending the prototype. In many cases, it can be beneficial to request the factory to include the pattern as well. By having these supplementary resources, you can compare your measurements with those of the factory, enabling you to identify any discrepancies in their methodology.
If the factory measures the garment before sending it and identifies any specifications that fall outside the acceptable tolerance range, they can rectify these issues before sending the garment to you. This proactive approach saves both time and money. It is crucial for both you and the factory to adhere to the same measurement process to ensure accurate comparison of the POMs. This is typically achieved by sharing a master measurement guide with the factory. Furthermore, having access to the pattern can assist in determining whether fit or measurement issues are attributable to the pattern or construction.
Step 2: Verify Construction
Please refer to the Technical Sketch and Construction page in your Tech Pack. Begin by comparing the construction callouts in your Tech Pack to the sample.
Consider the following questions:
- What differences do you notice between the Tech Pack and the actual construction?
- Do you approve of the way the factory has constructed the garment, even if it deviates from your original intentions?
- Are there any aspects that you would like to modify or enhance?
Take note of any revisions you would like to implement and update your Technical Sketches accordingly. Pay close attention to common problem areas such as pockets for any potential holes, as well as buttons and snaps for secure fastening. Additionally, thoroughly examine the stitching.
STEP 3: FIT
First, place the garment on a mannequin that accurately represents your base size. Begin assessing the fit by examining any drag lines or areas of stress. Ensure that the garment is properly positioned on the mannequin before making any adjustments to the fit. If necessary, you can also try fitting the garment on a model who closely matches your base size to assess its movement and functionality.
To guide your evaluation, consider the following questions:
- How can the fit be enhanced?
- Does the fit of the garment align with your design intentions?
Once you have finished evaluating the fit, take photographs to accompany the feedback you will provide to the factory. It can be beneficial to annotate the photos with arrows and text to highlight specific problem areas.
Step 4: Writing Comments
Maintaining organization and consistency is crucial when composing comments. Given the potential language and cultural barriers, it is essential to strive for clarity in order to facilitate effective communication. If your points of measure are numbered, it is advisable to reference those numbers in your comments. Additionally, if your factory has provided comments along with the prototype, it is important to address them. Establishing a consistent format for your comments will enable your factory to easily locate pertinent information.
Striking a balance between clarity and kindness is delicate. While it may seem that your comments are overly direct, excessive use of unnecessary language can lead to confusion. Therefore, it is recommended to be clear, concise, and incorporate polite expressions such as "please" and "thank you" when appropriate.
Incorporate the notes you made during the sample review into your Tech Pack on the Prototype Review page. While not every section may be necessary, it is crucial to always address the three main elements discussed earlier: Design, Fit/Function, and Construction.
To facilitate the process, here is a straightforward format to follow for your comments:
A small instructional blurb to let the factory know what any abbreviations or highlighted measures mean.
Ex:
“Measurements in red represent measurements out of tolerance and revised measures.
Cells highlighted in blue represent over ¼” difference between factory and [Company/Brand Name] measures.
BTS = Back to Spec”
DESIGN
Add any comments about design changes here.
Ex:
“Please add zipper garages at the top of the hand pockets. The sketch has been updated to reflect it.”
MEASUREMENT
Comment on any measurements that need to change or be brought back into tolerance referencing the POM code.
Ex:
“#002 CB Length is adopted as sampled.
#145 Back Neck Drop is out of tolerance. Bring back to spec.”
CONSTRUCTION
Add any comments about construction, such as stitch or seam changes or callouts.
Ex:
“Please correct the bottom CF zipper to be bartucked.
Clean the back yoke seam with binding.”
PATTERN
Add any comments about pattern updates here. If you are sending a pattern to the factory, be sure to include the tracking number in your comments.
Ex:
“Please correct the shape of the armhole. See P1 photos tab. A pattern has been sent with the correction, tracking #125849”
NEXT STEPS
Finally, finish up with a call to action statement. Is the prototype approved? Are you asking for another sample? Let the factory know.
Ex:
“Please send 2ndProto making all revisions above. Factory must submit pattern without seam allowance or ease and full garment measurements. Thank you.”
Once you’ve completed your comments you’re ready to send your Tech Pack back to the factory for next steps. Don’t forget to double check you’ve included photos, updated sketches, comments, and tracking numbers if you sent anything to the factory.
Creating a consistent sample review process with your factory can be daunting at first, but over time both you and your factory will get used to a standard format. Consistency will keep you sane and help you to develop a positive, lasting relationship with your factory.
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