You have now completed your first Fit session. That's excellent. Now what? Changes must be effectively communicated to the factory so that additional samples do not have to be sent. This post describes the steps you can take and things to watch out for to make it happen.
How do I communicate my changes?
Use the Tech Pack column to fill in the columns related to your sample.
For example, for pre-production samples (PPS), fill in the "PPS" (enter the measurements of the samples received) and the "+/-" (enter the difference in measurements) columns.
requested, samples received) and the “PPS Modification Spec” (where you enter the required dimensions after the fitting session).
It may also be necessary to submit written comments about changes in measurements, especially if the changes are materially different or are changed to correct current sample issues.
If there is a problem with the pattern (for example, an uneven hem or structural problem), it is often best to include a picture of the problem and accompanying text.
If you don't like the curve of the crop, or if there's something wrong with the shape, you can draw the actual shape you want over the photo.
If you have problem areas, adding measurement points may help.
This helps solve problems with complex cutting lines and curved areas such as armholes and hips.
Additional text and pictures can be added in new sheets within the Tech Pack itself, or as simple Word documents.
Personally, I add a sheet to my tech pack (nothing special, just add a blank sheet, write the pattern and date at the top, and list your changes).
That way you can easily refer to the comments the next time you add a pattern.
It's all stuck in one place.
On the Techpack page, the measurements the factory should follow for the next sample are highlighted in yellow, and the measurements to change are in bold to make it easier to find.
When submitting comments, add any critical issues in bold to the body of the email to ensure they are addressed.
In some cases, the sample may not meet the specification (according to the measurements you requested), but it may still be satisfactory.
In this case, we will note that the measurements have been approved according to the sample, although the specifications have changed. To help you better understand the meaning of the above points, here are some screenshots. If the text is difficult to read, click the image to enlarge it.
What sort of language need to I use?
This may vary by factory and country.
However, when working with a non-native English speaking factory, you need to be direct and specific, and don't let your imagination run wild. In any case, don't write like you speak.
No extra words needed. Bullet points are great for making it easier for the manufacturer to identify and fix the issues one by one without having to search through long messages to find the problem.
People are busy, and the more extra words, the easier it is to miss something.
Be candid when necessary, especially for non-English-speaking manufacturers.
It may seem strange to most of us to ask someone to improve things so bluntly, but many foreign factories ask what they want and when they want it.
t is often considered irrelevant if you don't say exactly what it is. overlooked.
If something should have been done but it hasn't, don't be afraid to write it in bold capitals so that it doesn't get overlooked again.
It may take some getting used to, but in my experience, it gives better results. Don't expect the factory to fix the problem.
This is often a problem as many start-up brands expect their factories to provide all the solutions. If you have a good factory they will certainly help you and give you suggestions, but they are making money out of you and they are making money in a direction that is more profitable for them than what is best for you.
Remember that it can lead you. If something is wrong, don't just say "correct me". Say what should happen.
For example, if a fit model finds it difficult to get something in her waist but looks great in it, rather than simply saying, "I find this outfit difficult to put on," say, "The zipper is 6 inches too short, I'd like to change it." please.” in the following pattern. ” Add new zipper lengths to the datasheet. xt.
Think about the result
One of the most important things to consider when writing a comment is, "What are the consequences of this change I'm making?" This is another challenge for new and inexperienced brands. Often things are not well thought out, and when it comes to the next rehearsal, one problem is solved, but another one arises. I wrote some sample his scenarios below to explain my point more clearly.
If you have a top or dress with sleeves, increasing the Cross Shoulder value may make the sleeves too long. why? This is because the sleeves start lower on the body as the shoulders get wider. In this example, the sleeves are the same length, so they appear longer because they are below the arm. If you want it in the same position as the current pattern, the sleeve length should be shortened to compensate for the wide shoulders. If you've read my previous posts on tech packs and patterns, you've heard my advice to have all the right patterns from the right fabrics. If the fabric of the pattern is different or you change it, you should think about the effect.
For example, if your example fit is made of a very stretchy fabric and you take multiple measurements to get a snug look, the lower stretch of the actual fabric may make the garment too tight. there is. When changing the armhole stretch measurement (the distance from the highest point of the shoulder to the armpit), keep in mind that the other measurements are based on the armhole position. For example, chest, waist, and hip measurements "x quantity" in centimeters/inches below armholes. For example, if you want to lower the armhole by 4 cm, remember to change the measurement so that "x cm/inch below the armhole" is 4 cm smaller. Otherwise, your chest, waist and hip measurements will be too low.
That was quite a substantial amount of information to absorb, which can be quite overwhelming for someone who is new to this subject. I hope that the provided examples have helped to clarify things to some extent. However, please do not hesitate to leave a comment below or contact me directly if you find all of this to be too much, and I will make an effort to explain it in a different manner for you.
If you do not feel confident in providing comments on your own at this stage, I offer online coaching and in-person fit session assistance (available in various cities worldwide). I would be delighted to further discuss your project with you. If this is of interest to you, please send me a message, and I will respond with additional information.