Preparation of garment for fitting
All facings should be in position except those at hem of a jacket/sleeve.
Seams which are unlikely to need any adjustment such as those in a pleated or gathered skirt may be stitched. Centre front and center back seams may also be stitched if they are on the straight center seams as a last resort shaped center seams must be tacked only. A zip in the straight center back seam should be inserted before the front and back of the garment are tacked together, as it is much easier at this stage.
Tack all other darts and seams.
Tack the hem as it enables the proportion of the garment to be judged.
Do not attach the collar or the sleeve as the neckline and armholes must be perfectly set before these are attached.
Tack the waist band on to a skirt or trouser.
First fitting
Ensure that the garment is placed successfully on the discern with the middle traces in the middle of the determine and each aspects of garment on level. Pin openings collectively matching the seam lines.
Observe the widespread impact of the garment stability silhouette and percentage in relation to figure.
Check the grain line first as these manipulate the stability and set. Other faults frequently disappear after the grain has been corrected and any last faults to be located and corrected.
Study the quantity of ease and modify if fundamental via pinning the surplus equally on both aspect of facet seams or through clipping the tacking stitches and letting out equally if the garment is too small. All seams need to be easy i.e besides any puckering induced through one aspect having been eased on to the other. When adjusting a ease on garment, have in mind that the percentage and form are higher preserved via making a small adjustment in two or greater seams than via making a giant adjustment in one seam each time this is possible.
Dart should factor precisely closer to the absolute best factor the curve for which they are meant and give up simply quick of it, they might also want to be lengthened or shortened or moved to every other section to acquire the high-quality viable fit. A dart hid in a seam recognised as panel seam have to pass by over the best possible factor of the curve or inside 1 inch of it. The cloth is pliable and can be eased. Match bodice and skirt darts throughout the waist seam anyplace possible.
Study the shapes of all curved edges and seams and make the critical adjustments. Adjust darts and seams if they are unflattering as even a mild adjustment can make tremendous upgrades in the garment and on the determine decide the new line and then draw the new line on the pattern. Place the two facets of the garment with proper facets together. Pin the sample on and use tailors tacking to mark the new line on each in order that they will be identical.
Study the positions of all layout small print such as pockets , buttons, belts etc. Adjust the measurement and function if necessary.
Also Read..What Are The Terms relating to fit?
Any changes need to be tacked from the internal of the garment and the garment outfitted once more earlier than stitching. This is acknowledged as correction becoming and no longer the 2d fitting.
Second fitting
All the main seams may be stitched unless there is any reason to doubt the fit, except the waist seam as the position of this often affected by other adjustment.
Check all the positions of the first fitting again observing grain, balance and amount of ease in all areas where there are shapes - curved lines. Check dress making process for accuracy of curved lines.
The collar should be tacked on but not the sleeves as these are pinned during fitting. The width and shape of the collar should be flattering to the shape of the face and in line with current fashion.
Check that the armhole fits perfectly and pin the sleeves on to fit.
Pin the hemline at the required level parallel to the floor.
Third fitting
A third fitting is necessary for a garment with sleeves to check the fit of sleeves after they have been tacked in.
Also read... what is standards for good fit?
コメント