DEVELOPING FRONT WAIST
FIGUREV1
A. Cut paper approximately 24'' (60.96-cm)square.
B. Fold paper in half, crease sharply and pin work with fold of draft away from you.
C. On fold, measure length of waist ( allow margins at both ends) Dot.
D. Square a line from each dot width of bust measurements. Dot end of line.
E. connect these two dots extending lines to edge of paper. Label center front.
Note. Recheck length at center front and length of waist at fold- lengths must be the same.
F. Label remaining lines illustrated .
G. Trace a short line at waistline and center front intersection to opposite side. Repeat at fold.
FIGUR -2
A. To develop neckline place front of designer's neckline curve with determined numbers and guideline matching at center front and at top of waist ( as illustrated ) For example : #6 line parallel to top of waist and #6 parallel to center front .
B. Draw neckline. Label neckline at top of waist A and at center front , B.
FIGUR -3
A. To establish bust line on center front divide length from bottom of neck line at B to waist line crossmark.
Crossmark
Note: Position of bust line level may very depending upon the figure. it may be slightly higher or lower than the half way mark. Adjustment can be made by raising or lowering bustline desired amount.
B. At crossmark, square a line the apex measurement . Dot level apex.
C. from apex square a line down and through waistline to edge of paper ( line must be parallel to center front ) level center of waistline dart. D. At waistline from fold measure in 1 1/8" ( 3.49 cm ) dot level C.
E. Draw underarm seam from C to point on fold of paper to equal underarm length ( as illustrated ) label D.
F. To determine depth of dart underlay, take this front waistline work sheet measurement and subtract from draft measurement . Draft measurement equal distance between center front and C.
Example:
8 1/2" = Draft waist line
(21.59 cm) measurement
6 1/4" = work sheet
( 15.88 cm ) measurement
2 1/4" = dart underlay
(5.71 cm ) measurement
G. On waistline divide depth of dart underlay evenly on each side of dartline. draw lines extending through waistline and up to apex.
Figure 4
A. To develop armhole square a line at D from fold length indicated below by size of form used. dot and label E.
Size Length
4, 2" (5.08 cm )
6,7 2 1/16" ( 5.24 cm)
8,9 2 1/8" (5.40 cm)
10, 11 2 3/16"(5.56 cm)
12,13 2 1/4" (5.72 cm)
14, 15 2 5/16" (5.88cm)
16 2 3/8" ( 6.03 cm )
18 2 7/16 (6.19 cm)
B. On squared line from D, measure 1/4" (0.64cm ) Crossmark. Label F.
C. Square a line from E up 2 1/2"(6.35cm ).
Dot label G.
D. At Fold and waistline intersection, measure up the measurement obtained from waistline to end of shoulder dot label H.
E. square a line at H from fold 1/2" (1.27 cm). Label I.
F. Place french curve touching F, G and I.
Draw in armhole (heavier line in figure 4A )
To be continue....
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