Introduction :- In sewing, a seam is the be part of the place two or extra layers of fabric, leather, or different substances are held collectively with stitches. Seams in cutting-edge industrially produced apparel, footwear, residence keep textiles and carrying items are sewn via industrial stitching machines. Home shoe making, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may additionally use a mixture of hand and computing device sewing.
In garb construction, seams are categorized through their kind (plain, lapped, bound, flat) and function in the completed garment (center lower back seam, inseam, facet seam). Seams are completed with a range of methods to forestall raveling of uncooked cloth edges and to neaten the internal of garments.
Seams used for assembling sewn merchandise are load bearing and ideally must be comparable in bodily houses to the fabric being sewn. The sew kind and stitching thread used will fluctuate with every application. Hence, it is essential to be acquainted with quite a number seam types, their purposes and versions handy so that you can pick the proper seam to go well with your stitching needs.
This technical bulletin will be your rapid reference information to seam types.
Seam Classification
Seams are categorized in accordance to the type/number of elements used. There are eight lessons of seams described as per ISO 4916:1991.
In the past, seams have been described as Flat, Superimposed, Lapped or Bound. Stitching (then differentiated from seams) have been described as Edge ending or ornamental. Varieties of seams are illustrated beneath collectively with their descriptions beneath the above and the new system.
Seam Classes
Class 1 – Superimposed seam
Class 2 – Lapped seam
Class 3 – Bound seams
Class 4 – Flat seams
Class 5 – Decorative/Ornamental stitching
Class 6 – Edge finishing/neatening
Class 7 – Attaching of separate items
Class 8 – Single ply construction
Class 1 – Superimposed seam(s)
These normally begin with two or more portions of cloth superimposed over every different and joined close to an edge, with one or greater rows of stitches. There are a range of sorts of seams inside this class.
Stitches Used
A superimposed seam can be sewn with Stitch Types 301 or 401 to create a easy seam. The identical seam kind can additionally be sewn with Stitch classification five hundred (Over area stitch) or Combination stitches (e.g., Stitch classification 516)
Application
Used to create neat load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc.
Lapped seam Class 2 – Lapped seam(s)
In this category of seam, two or extra piles of cloth are lapped (i.e., with edges overlaid, undeniable or folded) and joined with one or extra rows of stitches.
One of the most famous of this category is the Lap felled type, involving solely one stitching operation – a robust seam with cloth edges many times used to shield denims or comparable clothes from fraying. The superficially comparable French seam kind entails two stitching operations with an intervening folding operation – a flat, folded seam with solely one row of stitching seen on the pinnacle surface.
This seam category consists of a minimal of two factors and can have distinctive types consisting of a wide variety of rows of stitching.
Stitches Used
The lap felled seam is usually sewn with a 401 chain stitch.
Application
The looped seam is the most usually used seam. It is used in denims meanufacture due to the fact of its sturdy construction. The French seam is normally used for rain wear, and side stitching the front facings on jackets and dresses.
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Class 3 – Bound seam(s)
These are shaped through folding a binding strip over the aspect of the piles of cloth and becoming a member of each edges of the binding to the fabric with one or extra rows of stitching. This produces a neat area on a seam uncovered to view or to wear. There are a range of sure seams.
Stitches Used
401 chainstich or 301 lockstitc
Flat seam Class 4 – Flat seam(s)
In these seams (sometimes known as Butt seams), two cloth edges, flat or folded, are introduced collectively and over sewn with stitches.
The reason of these seams is to produce a joint the place no greater thickness of material can be tolerated at the seam, as in underclothes or basis garments. The looper thread(s) have to be soft, but sturdy and the cowl thread may additionally be ornamental as nicely as strong. This seam is referred to as a flat seam due to the fact the edges do no longer overlap one another, they will be butted together.
Stitches Used
Zigzag lock stitch, chain sew or overlaying sew (class 600).
Application
This kind of seam will consist of two elements and can be viewed on very excellent knitted clothes the place seams are required to be free from bulk.
Piping seam Class 5 – Decorative/Ornamental stitching
The decorative sew is a sequence of stitches alongside a straight or curved line or following an decorative design, on a single ply of material. More complicated kinds encompass quite a number types of piping, producing a raised line alongside the cloth surface.
Application
The stitching effects in ornamental floor consequences on the material e.g., pin tucks, utility of braids, etc. This seam kind consists of a minimal of one component.
Edge finishing-neatening Class 6 – Edge finishing/neatening
Edge ending sew is the place the area of a single ply of fabric is folded or protected with a stitch. The easiest of these operations is Serging, Type 6.01.01, in which a reduce side of a single ply is bolstered with the aid of over side stitching to neaten and stop fraying. The seam category ought to consist of seams whereby the edges are neatened by way of capability of stitches and can be used in instances the place the uncooked aspect requires finishing. There is solely ever one element to this kind of seam. This consists of different famous techniques of producing a neat side like hemming and blind sew hemming.
Application
Serging trouser panels, flys, facings, etc.
Class 7 – Attaching of separate items
This seam classification entails seams that require the addition of every other issue onto the area of a piece of material e.g., elastic braid onto the side of women briefs. This kind of seam requires two components.
Class 8 – Single ply construction
This seam classification entails seams that require the addition of every other issue onto the area of a piece of material e.g., elastic braid onto the side of women briefs. This kind of seam requires two components.
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