Seam types are the place where two pieces of cloth are joined by application of a series of stitches or stitch types with an outlined geometry. Over the years there are variety of various sorts of seams that are developed to try to to different jobs. Many have largely been superseded by the event of machine stitches that finish as you sew them, and by the event of the overlocker (or serger in some parts of the world), it's useful to understand a number of the essential seams types and finishes.
There are simple commercial patterns for creating up a spread of clothes so as to find out sewing techniques. Following are a number of the essential sewing techniques.
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Common Types of Seams
Superimposed Seam (SS)
The superimposed seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of together. this is often one among the foremost common methods of seaming. the foremost basic superimposed seam is formed when one ply of cloth is stacked upon another with thread stitching through all plies of cloth . Variations are a clear seam, French seams, and Double machine seam.
Lapped Seam (LS)
The lapped seam is formed with two or more pieces of cloth overlapping one another . LS commonly, but not always, have one ply of cloth fold under itself for a finished edge. Lapped seams are common when sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. This class of seaming has the most important number of variations.
Bound Seams (BS)
The bound seam is formed to end and fringe of a garment. a standard example of this is able to be a neckline of a Crew T. A bound seam is one piece of cloth encompassing the raw fringe of another piece of cloth . There are many variations of a bound seam.
Flat Seam (FS)
This is the foremost commonly used seam. it's pressed open and flat and is typically neatened using different techniques. If the material is knitted a stretch stitch is employed which will allow the stitched seam to stretch the maximum amount because the fabric must in use.
A flat seam is made by having two pieces of cloth meet precisely at their edges. a canopy stitch is employed to stitch the 2 pieces of cloth together. This stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line.
A flat seam is that the basic seam joining the sides of two pieces of cloth . it's used on normal-weight fabrics where there's no special strain on the seam. In most cases, a clear straight stitch is employed to stitch the seam.
French Seam
The French Seam is especially useful when a cloth is delicate and susceptible to fraying, like chiffon. Raw edges are concealed inside a double-stitched seam.
A French Seam is usually used for fine fabrics or for those which fray easily. it's a seam within a seam and when finished should be about 5 mm or less in breadth .
Flat Fell Seam
This gives strength and decoration to a product. Denim jeans are made strong by this system . A double line of sewing is usually utilized in a contrasting coloured thread.
A flat fell seam may be a very strong neat seam which withstands heavy wear and frequent washing provides a neat finish with either side of the material . you'll choose which side of the seam you employ on the proper side of the material .
Edge Finished Seams (EF)
This seam is employed to stop the sides of the material from rolling or curling. Primarily used for knit fabrics and is suitable for straight or curved seams and edges.
Ornamental Seam (OS)
This seam is formed using machines with zigzag capability. it's used on a clear seam on woven or knit fabric. The zigzag stitch length (coverage) must be adjusted to accommodate and stop fabric from ravelling. The more the material ravels, the closer together the stitches got to be (tighter or shorter stitch length).
The fabric is joined using seams that are appropriate for the material used
Seams are neatened consistent with the sort of cloth and target market requirements
Fabric volume are often manipulated to feature shape, style and surface decoration to a product.
Neatening Seams
Pinking
Pinking shears are wont to cut a zigzag edge along a woven fabric edge. This helps to stop the woven threads from unravelling, making a flat seam.
Overlocking and Zigzag Stitching
An overlocker with three or more threads is employed simultaneously to trim, stitch and neaten the seam. this is often a cheap thanks to neaten the seam.
Bias Binding
When it's essential to hide the material edge, bias binding are often folded in half and stitched along both edges of the flat seam. Seams in additional expensive fashion clothing often feature bound edges. this system also can be a less expensive alternative to creating a totally lined garment.
In clothing that has special high-performance features, the seams are taped, for instance during a wetsuit. The water movement through the seam is restricted by the tape and therefore the seams also are strengthened.
Shaping Techniques
Dart:-
Darts are wont to create 3D shaping in flat fabric so as to suit the figure. A dar within the fabric is beneficial at the waist or bust where a pointed fold is formed to shape the garment panel. Darts are stitched along the fold line and pressed down, towards the side seam.
Pleating
A pleat may be a fold within the fabric, which may be pressed so as to stay its edge or stitched down along a neighborhood of the fold. Skirts are often pleated to permit for simple movement at the knee. On some skirt-front panels, very small pleats called pintucks are stitched right down to provides a decorative effect.
Gathering
Fabric width are often reduced by gathering to offer a wavy shaping to curtains or garment waistlines or sleeves. Fabric volume is controlled by two lines of long stitches at the highest fringe of the material . the 2 threads on one side of the material are gently pulled taut because the fabric is eased back along the length of the threads. this system is beneficial when inserting sleeves; the sleeve top is gathered and therefore the fullness distributed consistent with the fit round the armhole opening when the bulk of the gathering round the shoulder.
To ease in fullness at the highest of the sleeve, make a row of machine stitching along the seam line and 6 mm inside seam line between notches, employing a long machine-stitches.
Seam – best practices
Smooth and even in an appearance on the within and out of doors . (Properly adjust machine tension, stitch length, and presser foot pressure to suit the material and thread. Fabric shouldn't pucker)
Even in breadth throughout
Pressed open or closed consistent with the sort of seam and the way it's utilized in the development process
When stitched with thread, the thread should be appropriate to the material type and fibre content. Thread colour should match or slightly darkest.
Neat and smooth in appearance, without added bulk.
Free from ravelling, stretching, rolling and curling.
Should not be visible from the proper side of the garment.
Affecting the appearance of Seam
The technique and skill of the stitching machine operators also govern the looks of sewn seams. a number of the factors which will adversely affect the looks of a seam.
Stitch Defects:-
Loose Stitches- Puckers
Poorly formed stitches Twists
Crowded stitches Plaits
Tight stitches Undulations
Crooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)
Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed (felled seams)
Methods for Making
There is often a choice of method to use when constructing features like pockets, tabs, collars, cuffs, and plackets, or when inserting zips or adding a facing. The designer will got to consider fabric type and weight and whether the development technique is additionally to be decorative. Interlining may have to be fused to the rear of the material to strengthen it when constructing collars, packets, pocket opening and flaps.
More complex procedures will take longer to form and therefore the machinists will need more skill. Linings and interlinings will increase the value , as will larger features that require extra fabric (e.g. gathers or pleats) or complex fastenings.
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