Garment manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, in order that any fabric irregularities are caught early within the production process. Textile producers also generally inspect fabrics before sending them to manufacturers.
General Inspection Procedures
Fabric inspection is completed during a suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting.
Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to the inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above viewing area. The backlight are often used as and when needed.
Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be quite 15 yards per minute.
All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of excellent or lot is received.
Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available before inspection.
The approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for assessing color, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between center and selvage and therefore the beginning, middle, and end of every roll must be evaluated and documented.
Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against the quality .
All defects must be flagged during inspection
The length of every roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for a further replacement to avoid a shortage.
If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done from the start , middle and end of selected rolls.
Four-Point System
Most used method in apparel industry for cloth inspection which is performed following ASTM D5430-93 ( Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics ). Defects are identified at a clearly noticeable distance of three feet and marked with points. Every possible defects features a demerit point counting on its severity during this system.
To use this technique someone need to know following things:
Fabric inspection method or preparation
Vast idea on nature of cloth defects (how a mistake looks and its appearance)
Criteria of giving penalty points supported defects and defect length
Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found during a fabric roll or than
A Check sheet or format for recording data
Fabric Inspection Method:
Fabric is inspected to work out its acceptability from a top quality view point. There are various fabric inspection systems such as-
4- point system
10- Point system
2.5- point system etc.
Defect Classification: The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points consistent with the dimensions , quality, and significance of the defect. No quite 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. A defect are often measured either length or width direction; the system remains an equivalent . Only major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be assigned variety of points counting on the severity or length.
Only major defects are taking under consideration . a significant defect is any defect that might cause a final garment to be considered a second.
* Upon the amount and therefore the size of the imperfections within the given yard, a maximum of 4 points are often given to at least one linear yard.
* Four points are often given for every linear yard when a defect is running continuously along the length of the material .
* Hole point could also be evaluated by size. depending on the severity or length.
Acceptable Level:
Many wont to say that up to 40 points per 100 square yards is suitable . within the apparel and textile industry, textile mills, apparel brands and buyers set their own standards for acceptable points. A standards level is about by ASTM.
Many mills grade fabrics as first quality and second quality rather than just Pass/Fail the material roll or fabric lot. Again grading is completed based number of penalty points per 100 square yards.
One more thing you ought to remember that acceptable points are often defined as points per 100 linear yards also as points per 100 square yards. Secondly, acceptable points for individual roll and acceptable average points of all roll are set at different level.
An international buyer that explains something like following
any running defect quite 4 continuous yards will cause the roll to be rejected.
Fabric width up to 64-66 inches shall be classified as first quality if number of penalty points there in doesn't exceed 50 points per 100 linear yards.
For fabric width wider than 64-66 inches acceptable penalty points should be proportion of fifty points per 100 linear yards. (Use 64 inch for such calculation)
In general, acceptable level of ‘points per 100 linear yards’ or ‘points per 100 square yards’ are different for various fabric types. For example:
For Cotton Twill/Denim 28 points per 100 square yards (23 points per 100 square meters) for individual fabric roll
For All synthetic fabrics 20 point per 100 square yards (16 points per 100 square meters) for individual fabric roll
Example: a cloth roll 120 yards long and 46 inch wide contains following defects.
DEFECTS & DEFECTS POINT
4 defects up to 3 inch length-- 4 x 1= 4 points3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length-- 3 X 2=6 points2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length-- 2 X 3= 6 points1 defect over 9 inch length --- 1 X 4 =4 points1 hole over 1 inch ---- 1 X 4= 4 points Total = 24 point =15.652. So, defect is acceptable.
Total defect points
24 Points
=15.652. So, defect is acceptable.
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