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Writer's pictureBhagchand Rajak

What is Subcontracting Business Process in Garment Industry?

Updated: Mar 24, 2021



Subcontracting are often defined as doing partial work of a contract that's originally received by other. the businesses those do subcontract are called as subcontractors. they're also referred to as job-workers.



In the apparel industry , a subcontracting unit may be a factory that mainly does garment stitching work. they do not got to set-up other facilities and staffs for layer cutting, garment finishing, and packing activities. In apparel supply chain garment exporters receive original contract from apparel brands, international buyers or retailers. These export houses get their excess production done from subcontractors.


An export house also can work as a subcontractor. When an export house doesn't get enough direct business they take work from other export houses. So there's no fix definition that sub-contractors only sew garments. they will take subcontracting work from cutting to packing, provided they need in-house facilities for these.


Subcontracting Business Process in Garment Industry
Subcontracting Business Process in Garment Industry

Why Need Subcontracting Stitching Work

Followings are few visible reasons for existing subcontracting business within the garment industry .


Uncertainty of order volume around the year - Garment exporters found out their factory supported average order quantity. once they get excess orders in pick seasons, export houses prefer getting production done from a subcontractor. it's also found that exporters get production finished a part of their total orders from outside altogether seasons. By getting production done from outside, exporters save on overheads cost. They don’t got to invest in building and machines that would not be utilized within the full year.



Control over manufacturing cost

this is applicable to brands. By sourcing fabrics and other raw materials, brands can reduce the manufacturing cost of the garment. Also, brands can control the standard of raw materials keeping sourcing on their hand.


Keep away labour issues - Domestic brands are changing their sourcing strategy. They now started sourcing garment supported move Pack, rather than FOB orders. during this process they do not got to found out a factory. this manner brands can specialise in developing designs and retailing their clothes. Brands like UCB, ITC outsource their products from subcontractors. Brands give work to subcontractors those provide cutting, make and pack services.


Exporters and makes sometimes face problems in terms of quality standards of the merchandise when production gets done by subcontractors. However, stitching quality are often controlled.

Sources of Work for Subcontractors.

Export garment manufacturers – as mentioned above, in pick seasons garment exporters book orders quite their own production capacity. In such situation, they appear for subcontractors to urge production done. during this business process, repeatedly exporters get production done at lower cost than it might cost then by producing in-house.


Brands - Domestic brands those do not have their own manufacturing facility, give cut-make-pack orders to subcontractors. Fabric and trims are sourced by brands and given to subcontractors.


Designers - Designers need small quantity of clothes especially designs. they like sourcing fabrics and accessories by their own. they only got to stitching work by others. in order that they reach to subcontractors.

Work Flow of Subcontracting Business

Following is that the simple process flow of the subcontracting job. to form explanation easy, i'm considering that subcontractor is getting work form exporters.


  • A subcontractor sets up a factory with sewing machines and get in touch with with exporters for work. They show their expertise in products and facility they need to exporters and possible clients.

  • Garment exporters contact with subcontractors in their location, show their samples to subcontractors and fix price per piece for creating garment (in most cases – stitching only).

  • Subcontractor gets cutting from exporters rather than fabrics.

  • All trims and accessories are normally provided by exporters. If required, trims are often purchased by subcontractors. And expenses are billed to the exporters.

  • Subcontractor stitches garments. A partial garment stitch or complete garment stitching is completed . Subcontractors employ pieces rate operators for stitching . Stitching quality is checked by quality assurance team from the export house.

  • Stitched garments are sent back to the exporter after inspection.

  • Exporters check quantity received and merchandise quality.

  • Subcontractor generate invoice for every order

  • Subcontractors receive payment for his or her work

Checklist for Subcontractors



ALWAYS get a replica of the Prime Contract between the Owner and therefore the General Contractor. This contract will contain terms which will “flow down” to you thru the incorporation clause that nearly every subcontract contains. You can’t do much to vary these terms, but you'll got to know them because the job progresses.

READ every provision of the subcontract. i do know this sounds simple, but not all subcontracts hide the red flags within the same places. Remember the small print of a subcontract can sink you later if you aren’t prepared.

COMPARE the insurance and indemnity provisions of your subcontract. make certain that you simply simply are insured for those things that you are indemnifying for otherwise you might be left bare within the unlikely event of a drag . Also, make certain that you simply aren’t indemnifying the overall Contractor for its negligence or for the actions of others. It also wouldn't hurt to run these provisions by your insurance carrier to make certain that the carrier is on board.

STRIKE or at the very least soften any “pay if paid” contract language. If a General Contractor won’t comply with strike the supply , a minimum of put it in line with the law and check out and add language that any non-payment has got to be your fault before you're subject to such a clause.

BALANCE the attorney fees provisions. Many subcontracts have a method provisions that allow the overall contractor to gather its fees but barring your collection of an equivalent albeit you win. At the very least attempt to edit these sorts of provisions to permit the winner (“prevailing party”) to gather its fees.

This is faraway from an exhaustive list and will not be taken as a 1 size fits all approach to negotiating your subcontracts. As I stated above, you ought to always consult a construction attorney that you simply trust and do so early within the process to make certain that each one of the nuances of your particular subcontract are covered.

This is all about subcontracting in apparel manufacturing. you're welcome to feature other features of this business process if you discover something is missing here.

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Nidhi Lal
Nidhi Lal
08 feb 2021

Very helpful

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